Sitting at a friend’s place playing catch up. got into town last night, having left Bar Harbor, and Mount Desert Island. which means on the 12th I crossed over at Calais, ME and ended up in Machias, which I read and hear in my head as a Mexican/Tajano “ma-CHEE-us”, but I’m reliably told is pronounced match-EYE-is. Disirregardlessly, I had a lovely dinner there, fish chowda, a lobster for $14, and homemade onion rings.
on the 13th I backtracked “down east” downer up the coast if you look at a map. I’m told I need to drop my land lubbing, aerial mentality and think upon the water as an easy reach upon the wind, to go down east. I ended up in Lubec, “The Easternmost town in the US” and almost crossed back over into Canada, trying to get to Eastport thanks to Garmin and their spectacular software. wouldn’t have been a problem if the ferries were running, to take me to another island to transfer to another ferry to Eastport. so I got to back track some. Eastport was pretty in a run down, the money left town 20 years ago kind of way, economically depressed, shut down for the season, and mostly for sale. I did have a great breakfast at the one diner open in town. smoked salmon, bagels, onion and toe-maters. the 50′ visibility with fog was a bit of an impediment to good pics.
that’s the sea on the backsides of those buildings, promise.
from there I was told to hit up Jonesport and Belle Island. Jonesport is a no bullshit, straight up fishing village, and nothing more or less. and as beautiful, as I was told it’d be:
from there, I kept down the coast and ended up in Bar Harbor. that town has to be a special kind of hell in season. a single, two lane road on and off the island, little hotels and B&Bs all the way into town…. and the town is a tourist sales and eatery haven. it’s also a cruise ship port. there was one in the harbor somewhere, but I couldn’t see it, just the tender taking passengers back to the boat. there’s some locals on the west side of town. I spent the night parked at the town’s athletic field. I headed to and through Northeast Harbor and Southwest Harbor on the island, and from Bar Harbor and around to the others is where the money is. there are some very nice waterfront homes (those that can be seen) outside of Bar Harbor throughout the island. the Acadia National Forest is on the island too. I just didn’t feel like camping in a chilly, wet, dense forest. maybe in the summer. there was a stunning picture of the recent blood moon eclipse taken from there.
after I got off the island, I took 1 south through several really lovely towns, Ft. Knox (built between 1830-1898. why we were concerned about the Spanish Navy coming up the east coast raiding is beyond me, but that’s when the fort got finished, despite it being the Brits who raised hell up and down the coast from 1776-1825). and the bridge just west of the Fort had a very cool observation deck in the North tower. both attractions being the cheapest I’ve paid for to date, at $2.50 with a mil discount.
Belfast is a cool looking town, with a well recommended Co-op, which is hippy heaven. I didn’t see any kumbucha there, but I wasn’t looking either. I’d bet it was there. it’s what Whole Foods may have started as, before it went corporate.
Camden and Rockport are also pretty, but traffic picked up from there south into Portland. and Portland is the biggest town I’ve been in since Halifax I guess. there is some very cool old architecture here and they seem to be hopping in the downtown/waterfront areas. gunna go do some yoga and dinner in a couple hours, and see what this town’s about.
So, here’s some backtracking pics:
11 Oct, Mahone Bay, NS:
and Lunenburg, NS. a bit touristy, but very pretty, and a UNESCO world heritage site. the Picton Castle was getting set to head out damn near around the world if I heard it right. looked like they were doing crew drills in the rigging.
OCT 12, Bay of Fundy pics. there’s water out there, I promise.